Day 3 – Bolzano

The autostrada down into Bolzano from the Brenner Pass goes on for ever. It’s heavily trafficked but it’s beautiful as it winds its way down the valleys. There are small towns, castles, mansions, vinyards, market gardens, and ruins everywhere you care to look. That’s if you dare take your eyes off the trucks, caravans, speeding SUV’s, and unsure tourists hurtling themselves south, down the narrow motorway.

In Bolzano we park the car and find the studio that we have rented close to the center. Turns out to be fantastic. It’s modern, comfortable, and it’s airconditioned! Once we are settled we take a walk through town, past the Ötzi museum and across the river, before heading back to Piazza Walther for some food and drink. The afternoon turns into a very pleasant evening and we sit and enjoy the sun setting over the mountains, and just watching people as they cross the square.

Day 4 – Glorenza

Before we left Sweden I asked ChatGPT to suggest a daytrip west from Bolzano. It took us along some beautiful scenic roads through a valley full of ski resorts, vinyards, and historic towns. We ended up in Glorenza, apparently the smallest walled town in Europe. We park the car outside the wall and walk. The town square is full of mountain biking tourists unloading their bikes at a hotel. It’s hard to understand why the local authorities have not banned cars here altogether. Luckily there is not a great interest in walking so we have the streets to ourselves.

Before heading back to Bolzano we dropped in to couple of wineries (recommended by the AI): the Manincor Winery in Caldaro, and the Alois Lageder Winery in Magré. We fill the car with Lagrein and Pinot Grigio, local grape varieties grown at high altitude here in the alps.

Back in Bolzano it’s dinner at the Wirtshaus Loewengrube and then a stroll across to Piazza Walther to farewell the day with a Spritz or two.